In my previous post about being an expatriate (expat), I discussed what an expat is and why some people choose such a life. I also got into some aspects of my own situation. The reasons why people become expats are interesting, of course, but another interesting aspect is to consider the pros and cons of living an expat life.
There are things that you
expect to be good about it (or at least hope will be good), and these are the
reasons you do it. And there are things you might understand from the outset
will be difficult. But there are also things you discover along the way, things
you never considered, that turn out to be either good or bad. Often, the
judgment of whether it is a good or bad thing depends on the individual; what I
consider a cool surprise, someone else might see as hardship.
So, some of my next posts
will discuss the pros and cons of expat life as I have experienced it. I will
try not to make it the “good and bad of Ukraine” – that will be a different
post. What I want to look at here is what I have found to be good or bad about
living like an expat, but I suspect there will be some necessary correlation
with the pros and cons of Ukraine itself.
This first post will
discuss some of the cons; next time I will focus on some of the pros. But
neither post will be all-encompassing. I’ll return to the topic from time to
time with more additions to the list on both sides.
So… here are a few of the
cons:
Language
difficulties: This is anticipated, of course. Unless you
spend months or years taking language courses before you go, you have to expect
to have problems communicating when you drop yourself into a country with a
completely different language. It’s been no different for me, except that, to
be honest, I’ve not made enough effort myself to become fluent.
From the beginning, I had a grasp of the basics of Russian, and in those days before I made the permanent move, I did work on it. And I was not totally lost in the beginning, but it was hard. Understanding what others said was the hardest thing, especially when many people speak a dialect called Surzhik, which is sort of a combination of Russian and Ukrainian. For those who are unaware, Kharkiv is mostly a Russian-speaking city, as are most cities in eastern Ukraine.
From the beginning, I had a grasp of the basics of Russian, and in those days before I made the permanent move, I did work on it. And I was not totally lost in the beginning, but it was hard. Understanding what others said was the hardest thing, especially when many people speak a dialect called Surzhik, which is sort of a combination of Russian and Ukrainian. For those who are unaware, Kharkiv is mostly a Russian-speaking city, as are most cities in eastern Ukraine.
After almost six years, my
Russian is still embarrassingly poor. And my Ukrainian is nonexistent. But I am
able to manage most things I need to deal with on a daily basis. I have no
problem shopping, ordering taxis and dealing with other daily matters.
And I can communicate
pretty well with the guys at the physical therapy clinic I go to twice a week.
I’ve been learning more Russian, and they’ve been learning some English. Still,
my ability to communicate on a more complex level is very poor, and this makes
often life more difficult.
One of the reasons that
I’ve learned slowly is that I am immersed in English almost constantly. My work
is in English. My friends all speak English well, and they WANT to speak
English with me; I represent a rare opportunity to practice with a native
speaker. Plus, my friends are all intelligent, interesting people who like to
have intelligent, interesting conversations. I excel at that in English, all
modesty aside, but my Russian is on too low a level for anything but the
simplest kinds of discussions.
So, I speak English a lot,
and I practice Russian quite rarely. It seems ironic that my Russian should be
so poor after living for so long in a Russian-speaking city, but there it is. I
am actually quite ashamed of this.
But language difficulties
are an issue for anyone who chooses to live in a different country with a
different language. Some people learn faster than others. Maybe I’m just too
old to fully acquire another language.
Having
to Depend on Others: Not
completely, of course, but too much for my liking. It’s closely related to the
language issue, but also involves having to navigate the nuances of another
culture. In many cases, you just can’t do it successfully by yourself (at least
not without it costing you a lot more money).
Perhaps the biggest
example for me is with medical treatment. There are several layers of clinics
and hospitals in Ukraine. Most people have to deal with the “free” state
medical system which is not really free. The care is usually substandard, and there
can be long waits. And if you can’t pay at all, you are in trouble. People
usually have to supply their own supplies and pay doctors something directly to
get reasonable care.
Pay attention, America –
this is how socialized medicine works in reality!
But there are private
clinics that operate much more like clinics in the USSA (though still not
exactly). The prices are higher, but the quality and attention are far better.
When I have needed to see a doctor, I have gone to such a clinic. The problem for
me, however, has been that the vocabulary associated with visiting a doctor and
getting explanations of the diagnosis and prescribed treatment is far more
complex than I can handle, even today.
So I have always had to
find someone to go to the doctor with me – someone who has time to spend
helping me and whom I feel comfortable sharing my medical problems and other
more personal stuff with. Someone I don’t feel squeamish taking off my shirt
(or more) in front of. This has not always been easy.
There have been times when
I’ve been able to find someone to help; during my first few years, I had a
several people who worked with me in the company I was trying to establish, and
one or another was usually available when I needed such help. Then for a few
years, I had a very close person who was always ready to help. But that ended
last year. Last summer, one of my private students was between jobs and had
some time on her hands, and she was glad to help me with some visits for basic
checkups and especially for the process of getting an MRI on my back. She was a
Godsend!
But since then, there
really has been no one who I have felt I could impose upon for the time
required for this. Everyone has their work to do, along with their other life
responsibilities and needs. So I prefer not to impose.
It’s my problem, and I
ought to be able to deal with it on my own. After all, in the USSA, I would
just jump in my truck, drive to the clinic and get my checkup, treatment, or
whatever I needed – and I would not need anyone else. But here it just is not
that simple. And because there has been no one to help, I’ve put off doctor
visits. That, really, is not a good thing.
Another example is dealing
with government agencies. On several occasions, I have had to deal with
Ukrainian immigration authorities and the bureaucracy involved in getting
permission to stay here. Again, I had to have a friend help me with it, not
only due to language, but also because there are subtleties of dealing with
these people – often involving a bit of bribery – that just don’t exist in
American culture.
But the problem with all
of this runs deeper than just simple inconvenience. It’s an issue of feeling
independent, of being able to take care of myself, of being a man. Although I
have always been VERY grateful for the help, no matter who took the time for
me, I still found it disconcerting to sit there, listening to someone else
discuss my situation with a doctor and say, “Just hang on, I’ll tell you
everything later.” I want to interact
directly with the doctor, to ask my own questions.
I don’t like feeling as
though I am at anyone else’s mercy or control, in anything. My independence is critically
important for me, and it has been for a long time. This is why I can’t work for
some big corporation with stupid rules and office politics that reduce
employees to obedient automatons. I cherish living life my own way and doing my
own thing.
But I’ve learned here that
I sometimes have to put that pride aside and let someone take the reins for my
benefit. I appreciate those friends who have been willing to do this for me,
but still, it’s hard. So… this issue of feeling a loss of independence has been
a nagging problem for me here.
Dealing
with a Lower Quality of Life: I live in a small, two-room apartment in a
fairly good area of Kharkiv. I’ve seen places that were better and many that
were much worse. Overall, I consider my place to be pretty good for the
conditions here. It’s a lot better than my first apartment here.
But at the moment, my
toilet is not working: the tank will not refill. As a result, I have to flush
by pouring water into the bowl from six-liter bottles. My landlady is on
vacation, so it won’t get fixed until next week at least. It’s a bad situation,
but it certainly could be a lot worse.
For most of the summer, I
had no hot water. Hot water is supplied in a communal fashion by city heating
plants, and they always suspend service for a month or so for maintenance and
repairs. But this year, there were some other problems, so I had no hot water
for more than 12 weeks. The owner of my place finally installed a water heater
about three weeks ago, so that problem was solved.
Well, not quite. The water
heater eats a lot of electric current. If I forget to unplug it before I turn
on my water pot to make coffee or tea, the circuit breaker trips. Sometimes the
circuit breaker trips just for fun. So I have to go out into the hallway to
reset the breaker.
There are a number of
other things about my standard of living here that would make most Americans
question my sanity for staying here. I described a lot of them in a humorous
old post entitled Substandards of Living.
Ukraine is a country that is still struggling to improve its antiquated Soviet
infrastructure, and it has a long way to go. Roads are often terrible, buses
are a far cry from what one might expect in the USSA or Western Europe,
electricity can be cut off, and because many houses receive their winter heat
from communal heating plants, they can remain cold into November.
The list could go on, but
that’s not the point. There are many places in the world where things are
similar or even MUCH worse than in Ukraine. I’ve never lived in Africa, but I
know people who have, and I admire their ability to live for long periods of
time in much more primitive and difficult conditions.
And I’ve experienced a
number of interesting conditions. One temporary house I had in northern Japan
had just a single kerosene stove to heat the whole house, and one corner of the
house was collapsing. My apartment in Lima, Peru, had no window screens and no
heat. Insects were not really a problem in Lima (next to the ocean), so screens
were not considered necessary… but there were pigeons. And Lima never gets
really cold, so heat was not considered necessary. But there were times in
winter (June to August) when the combination of temperature and humidity made
it feel very chilly.
The point is that an expat
from North America, Western Europe or a similar country has to expect and be
able to tolerate conditions that would be considered intolerable in the native
country. If you can’t laugh off the fact that the doors on your wardrobe are about
to fall off, your stove has to be lit with matches, or you can hear your
neighbors’ intimate conversations and arguments, then you probably should not
be an expat.
Sometimes
Feeling Very Alone:
This is a big one. Even if you are very outgoing, learn the language
pretty well, and are able to adapt to the local life, you can still have
moments that remind you that you ARE a stranger in a strange land. No matter
how well you assimilate and fit in, and no matter how good a social network you
develop, there will still be times when you feel isolated and very alone.
Of course a person can feel alone in his or her own country and culture. But I think that’s more about the person. When you are far away from family and friends (even if you make new ones in the foreign country), there is a different kind of aloneness that can hit you. Your friends have their own lives and families, and though you might be introduced or even included in a celebration or two, you are still not a part of that group – you can’t be. And very often, when everyone else has their plans, you have nowhere to turn but your own apartment, books or the Internet.
Holidays are a good example. Your national holidays generally mean nothing in the country in which you’re living. Meanwhile, their national holidays are usually celebrated by families or among friends whose common language and culture make the celebrations special. It’s not that you are rejected for being a foreigner, but you just are not part of a family unit, and many holidays are family-oriented.
Of course a person can feel alone in his or her own country and culture. But I think that’s more about the person. When you are far away from family and friends (even if you make new ones in the foreign country), there is a different kind of aloneness that can hit you. Your friends have their own lives and families, and though you might be introduced or even included in a celebration or two, you are still not a part of that group – you can’t be. And very often, when everyone else has their plans, you have nowhere to turn but your own apartment, books or the Internet.
Holidays are a good example. Your national holidays generally mean nothing in the country in which you’re living. Meanwhile, their national holidays are usually celebrated by families or among friends whose common language and culture make the celebrations special. It’s not that you are rejected for being a foreigner, but you just are not part of a family unit, and many holidays are family-oriented.
I wrote about this kind of
situation at the beginning of this year in my post, The Same Old New Year. In
Ukraine, New Year is a good example of a holiday that has special family
significance and which is very difficult for a foreigner to enjoy with friends.
This can be a really
debilitating problem for someone who isn’t psychologically able to deal with
occasionally feeling alone and isolated. But even for those who can normally
take it in stride at home, the kind of isolation you can sometimes feel in a
foreign land is unique and can get to you.
Not
Being Able to Watch Favorite Sports: I am not a sports nut who would sit for hours
on a sofa watching any game on television, and I can’t say that this is
something I miss terribly. But there are times when I would like to be able to
watch a special game in real time and not just hope to catch a few fleeting
highlights on the Internet a day later.
This came to a head for me
last spring when the Colorado Avalanche was shocking the NHL en route to its first division championship in years. I really wanted to see some of the games,
especially in the playoffs. But it wasn’t possible to do that from here.
I thought it would have
been great to have been able to watch this year’s Super Bowl because the Denver
Broncos were in the game. Considering the result, I guess it was a blessing
that I was not able to see it. More recently, my alma mater, Colorado State
University Rams, thoroughly defeated the despised University of Colorado
Buffaloes in the annual Rocky Mountain Showdown game. That is a game I
definitely would have liked to have seen!
But overall, missing out
on these games is a small thing.So... that's just a few of the cons of the expat lifestyle, or at least MY expat lifestyle. I'll come back soon with some of the pros. And in the future, I hope to toss in a few more of each as they occur to me.
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